Exploring the Japanese Underworld: Legends of Yomi and Meikai
When travelers envision Japan, images of cherry blossoms, neon-lit Tokyo streets, and serene Zen gardens often come to mind. However, beneath the surface of this vibrant culture lies a shadowy, fascinating realm found in ancient texts and folklore: the Meikai (Underworld). Known in Shinto mythology as Yomi-no-kuni, this land of the dead offers a profound glimpse into how ancient Japan understood mortality, purity, and the afterlife.
For the cultural explorer, understanding the Japanese Underworld is key to deciphering the country’s spiritual landscape. It is a journey that takes us from the oldest written chronicles to the misty mountains of Shimane Prefecture.
Origins: Concepts of the Afterlife
The concept of the Underworld in Japan is a complex tapestry woven from indigenous Shinto beliefs and imported Buddhist traditions. In the earliest eras, the afterlife was not necessarily a place of judgment or punishment, but rather a shadowy, polluted realm.
Yomi-no-kuni vs. Jigoku
Originally, Shinto mythology described Yomi-no-kuni (Land of the Yellow Springs) simply as the land of the dead. It was a gloomy, subterranean world where spirits resided, characterized primarily by kegare (impurity or pollution) rather than moral suffering. There was no distinction between heaven and hell; all who died went to Yomi.
With the arrival of Buddhism in the 6th century, the concept of the afterlife expanded. The Buddhist idea of Jigoku (Hell) introduced a system of judgment presided over by Enma Dai-O (Great King Enma), where souls faced punishment for their earthly sins before reincarnation. Over time, the terms Meikai (the invisible world) and Yomi became culturally intertwined, creating a unique syncretic view of death that influences Japanese funeral rites to this day.
The Legend: Izanagi and Izanami
The most famous myth regarding the Japanese Underworld is the tragic love story of the creation gods, Izanagi and Izanami, recorded in the 8th-century chronicles.
After creating the islands of Japan, the goddess Izanami died while giving birth to the fire god, Kagutsuchi. Overcome with grief, her husband Izanagi decided to journey into Yomi to retrieve her. He descended into the dark realm and pleaded with her to return to the land of the living.
Izanami agreed but warned him not to look at her while she negotiated with the gods of the Underworld. However, impatience consumed Izanagi. He lit a tooth of his comb to see in the darkness, only to reveal a horrifying sight: his wife’s rotting corpse, crawling with maggots and thunder gods.
Terrified, Izanagi fled. Enraged by his shame, Izanami sent hags and warriors of the Underworld to chase him. Izanagi managed to escape to the surface, sealing the entrance—Yomotsu Hirasaka—with a massive boulder. From opposite sides of the rock, they exchanged a final, chilling vow. Izanami threatened to kill 1,000 people every day, to which Izanagi replied he would birth 1,500 new lives daily to ensure humanity’s survival. This myth explains the cycle of life and death.
Modern Culture: From Obon to Anime
While the ancient myths are dark, modern Japanese culture has transformed the relationship with the Underworld into one of remembrance and storytelling.
The Obon Festival
Every summer, Japan celebrates Obon, a time when the spirits of ancestors are believed to return from the Underworld to visit the living. Unlike the scary legends of Yomi, this is a heartwarming reunion. Families clean graves, light lanterns (mukaebi) to guide spirits home, and perform folk dances. It culminates in Toro Nagashi, where floating lanterns are released onto rivers to guide the spirits back to the other side.
Pop Culture
The concept of Meikai remains a staple in Japanese entertainment. Anime and manga series like Dragon Ball Z, YuYu Hakusho, and Bleach frequently feature depictions of the Underworld, often bureaucratizing the afterlife with papers, stamps, and spirit detectives, blending the terrifying authority of Enma Dai-O with modern office culture satire.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting the Borderlands
For those brave enough to seek out the physical locations associated with these legends, there are specific sites in Japan said to bridge the gap between worlds.
Yomotsu Hirasaka (Shimane Prefecture)
Located in Higashi-Izumo, visitors can find the legendary entrance to Yomi. Known as Yomotsu Hirasaka, this site features a quiet, wooded slope and large boulders that evoke the myth of Izanagi’s escape. It is a solemn, atmospheric spot off the beaten tourist track, marked by a simple stone monument.
- Tip: Visit the nearby Iya Shrine, which is dedicated to Izanami.
Osorezan (Aomori Prefecture)
Mount Osore, or “Fear Mountain,” is one of Japan’s three most sacred places. It is a desolate, volcanic landscape with sulfurous vents and a gray caldera lake, literally resembling descriptions of the Buddhist hell. Here, blind mediums known as Itako are famous for summoning the spirits of the dead during the summer festival.
Enma-do Halls
Many Buddhist temples across Japan have an Enma-do (Hall of Enma). These small halls house statues of the red-faced Judge of the Dead. They are excellent places to observe how the terrifying aspects of the Underworld are integrated into daily worship.
Sources & Further Reading
To deepen your understanding of the Japanese Underworld, consider exploring these primary historical texts and literary works:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Compiled in 712 AD, this is the oldest chronicle in Japan and contains the full myth of Izanagi’s descent into Yomi.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, this text offers alternative versions of the creation myths and the Underworld.
- Kwaidan by Lafcadio Hearn: A classic collection of ghost stories that captures the eerie atmosphere of the Japanese spirit world.
Exploring the mythology of the Underworld provides a richer context for Japan’s shrines, temples, and festivals. It reminds us that in Japanese culture, the boundary between the living and the dead is never truly closed—only veiled.