Japan’s Reizan: A Journey to the Sacred Mountains
When travelers visualize Japan, the image is often dominated by the symmetrical, snow-capped cone of Mount Fuji. However, Fuji is merely the most famous representative of a profound cultural phenomenon: Reizan (霊山), or “Sacred Mountains.” covering over 70% of Japan’s landmass, mountains are not just geological features in Japanese culture; they are the dwelling places of gods, the training grounds of ascetics, and the bridge between the human world and the divine.
The Spiritual Origins of Mountain Worship
To understand Reizan, one must delve into the ancient roots of Sangaku Shinko, or mountain worship. Long before Buddhism arrived from the continent, the indigenous people of Japan practiced a form of animism that later evolved into Shinto. They believed that spirits, or Kami, inhabited natural features. Mountains were particularly revered for two main reasons.
First, they were the source of water, essential for rice cultivation, linking the mountain deities directly to agricultural fertility. Second, their soaring heights were seen as a ladder to the heavens. It was believed that when people passed away, their spirits ascended the mountains to watch over their descendants. Consequently, mountains became forbidden, holy ground—places where humans were not meant to tread casually.
With the introduction of Buddhism in the 6th century, these beliefs fused in a process called Shinbutsu-shugo (syncretism). This gave birth to Shugendo, a strictly Japanese mountain asceticism. Practitioners, known as Yamabushi, began climbing these forbidden peaks not for recreation, but for rigorous spiritual training, believing that enduring the physical hardship of the climb would grant them supernatural powers.
Legends of the Peaks: The Tengu and the Ascetics
Every sacred mountain in Japan is shrouded in folklore, but few figures are as iconic as the Tengu. Often depicted with red faces and long noses (or sometimes bird-like beaks), Tengu are mountain goblins or minor deities believed to be the guardians of the Reizan.
In popular legend, the Tengu were masters of martial arts and magic. It is said that the famous warrior Minamoto no Yoshitsune was trained in swordplay by the Tengu king of Mount Kurama in Kyoto. However, in the context of mountain worship, Tengu are often viewed as the transformed spirits of Yamabushi who were too proud or arrogant in their practice, doomed to protect the mountain for eternity.
Another enduring legend surrounds Mount Osore (Osorezan) in Aomori Prefecture. Known as one of the three holiest mountains in Japan, it is believed to be the literal entrance to the afterlife. According to local lore, the Sanzu River—the Japanese equivalent of the River Styx—flows here. During the bi-annual festivals, blind mediums known as Itako summon the spirits of the dead to communicate with grieving families, cementing the mountain’s reputation as a thin veil between worlds.
Modern Culture: Power Spots and Hiking
In contemporary Japan, the reverence for Reizan has evolved. While devout pilgrims still clad themselves in white robes to traverse the Kii Peninsula’s Kumano Kodo trails, a new type of visitor has emerged. The concept of the “Power Spot”—a location thought to revitalize the visitor with spiritual energy—has caused a boom in mountain tourism.
Urban dwellers from Tokyo and Osaka flock to mountains like Mount Takao and Mount Mitake on weekends. These trips are a blend of recreational hiking and spiritual cleansing. It is common to see hikers stopping to bow deeply at a Torii gate marking the trailhead, or washing their hands at a purification fountain before ascending.
Mount Fuji itself remains the ultimate symbol. While it is a bucket-list hike for international tourists, for the Japanese, climbing it is often a somber, quasi-religious act of endurance, particularly the practice of Goraiko—hiking overnight to witness the sunrise from the summit, symbolizing a spiritual rebirth.
Traveler’s Tips for Visiting Sacred Mountains
Visiting a Reizan is a highlight of any trip to Japan, but it requires a blend of preparation and respect.
1. Observe Proper Etiquette
Even if you are not religious, it is respectful to follow local customs. Bow once before passing under a Torii gate. If there is a shrine at the summit, offer a small coin (5 yen is lucky) and a prayer. Keep your voice down in sacred areas, especially if you see ascetics or monks in prayer.
2. Collect Goshuin
Most temples and shrines atop these mountains offer Goshuin—calligraphic stamps hand-written in a dedicated book (Goshuin-cho). These serve as beautiful, spiritual souvenirs of your pilgrimage. Note that these are religious items, not mere passport stamps, so treat the book with care.
3. Dress Appropriately
While Mount Takao can be climbed in casual clothes, mountains like Mount Haguro or the deeper trails of the Kumano Kodo require proper hiking gear. Furthermore, out of respect for the sanctity of the site, avoid overly revealing clothing when entering the main shrine halls.
4. Seasonality Matters
Many sacred mountains hold a Yamabiraki (mountain opening) ceremony, usually in early summer, and a closing ceremony in autumn. While you can often hike outside these times, the facilities (and spiritual presence) are most active during the official season. Conversely, heavy snow renders many northern Reizan inaccessible in winter.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the mythological foundations of Japan’s sacred landscapes, the ancient chronicles are essential reading:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Creates the foundation for Shinto creation myths and the birth of the land.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Provides historical context to the imperial line and early worship practices.
- Kumano Kodo: Pilgrimage to Powerspots (Modern Guidebooks): Essential for understanding the geography of the Kii Peninsula.
- Shugendo: The Way of the Mountain Monks: Various academic texts explore the fusion of Buddhism and Shinto that defines Reizan culture.
