Goryo-e: The Japanese Ritual of Pacifying Vengeful Spirits
When travelers witness the vibrant, boisterous parades of a Japanese summer festival (matsuri), few realize that the roots of these celebrations lie in fear, not joy. Beneath the surface of the chanting, the heavy lifting of portable shrines, and the festive music lies an ancient concept known as Goryo-e. This is the ritual of pacifying vengeful spirits, a practice that fundamentally shaped Japanese religion, history, and the very calendar of Kyoto.
Introduction
Japan is a land of eight million gods (yaoyorozu no kami), but not all of them are benevolent. In the classical era, the Japanese believed that natural disasters, plagues, and political upheavals were not random occurrences. Instead, they were the work of onryo—vengeful ghosts of aristocrats or martyrs who had died wrongly or tragically.
To stop the chaos, the living had to appease the dead. This necessity gave birth to the Goryo-e (御霊会), a specialized ritual designed to soothe these angry souls and transform them into protective deities. Today, understanding Goryo-e provides a fascinating lens through which to view Japanese culture, turning a simple shrine visit into a deep dive into the spiritual psychology of the Heian period.
The Origins of Fear and Reverence
The practice of Goryo-e emerged prominently during the Heian period (794–1185), a time of high court culture but also poor sanitation and frequent epidemics. When a plague swept through the capital of Kyoto, or when Mt. Fuji erupted (as it did in 864), the superstitious court looked for a cause.
The first officially recorded Goryo-e took place in the Imperial Garden of Shinsen-en in 863 AD. The court sponsored Buddhist sutra readings, dancing, and music to comfort the spirits of six specific people who had been victims of political intrigue. The logic was transactional: acknowledge the wrong done to the deceased, offer them entertainment and reverence, and beg them to stop the pestilence. This marked a pivotal moment where shamanistic folk beliefs merged with state-sponsored Shinto and Buddhist practices.
Legend: The Transformation of Sugawara no Michizane
To understand Goryo-e, one must look at its most famous figure: Sugawara no Michizane. His story is the archetype of the “angry ghost turned god.”
The Scholar’s Curse
In the early 10th century, Michizane, a brilliant scholar and politician, was falsely accused of treason by his rivals, the Fujiwara clan. He was exiled to Dazaifu in Kyushu, where he died in misery, longing for his beloved Kyoto.
Immediately after his death, disaster struck the capital. The sons of his accusers died young. Lightning struck the Imperial Palace, killing several courtiers and terrified the Emperor. The court concluded that Michizane’s angry spirit (Tenjin) was wreaking havoc.
From Onryo to Kami
To pacify him, the court conducted a massive Goryo-e. They restored his rank posthumously, burned the order of his exile, and built the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine to worship him. Through these rituals, the terrifying, lightning-wielding ghost was transformed into the benevolent God of Learning. Today, students pray to him for good grades, unaware that his worship began out of sheer terror.
Modern Culture and Festivals
The most surprising legacy of Goryo-e is that it evolved into some of Japan’s biggest tourist attractions. The Gion Matsuri in Kyoto, arguably Japan’s most famous festival, began as a Goryo-e in 869 AD to halt a plague.
While the atmosphere has shifted from solemn dread to community celebration, the core mechanics remain.
- The Mikoshi: The portable shrines carried during festivals are vehicles to transport the deity (formerly the spirit) through the streets to absorb impurities and bless the neighborhood.
- The Yamaboko Floats: In the Gion Matsuri, the massive floats are not just decorations; they act as spiritual lightning rods to attract plague spirits, which are then ritually destroyed or dismantled at the end of the festival.
Modern Goryo-e represents a unique cultural resilience—the ability to take the trauma of death and disease and sublimate it into art, music, and community bonding.
Traveler’s Tips: Experiencing Goryo-e Today
If you want to experience the echoes of these ancient rituals, here is how to approach them:
- Visit the Source: In Kyoto, visit Kamigoryo Shrine and Shimogoryo Shrine. These are the dedicated sites for the original spirits pacified in the Heian period. They are often quieter than major tourist spots and offer a thick, historical atmosphere.
- Timing is Everything: The Gion Matsuri takes place throughout July. To see the “pacification” in action, attend the Yoiyama (evening street parties) and the Yamaboko Junko (grand procession).
- Look for the Crests: When visiting Tenmangu shrines (dedicated to Michizane), look for the plum blossom crest. It was Michizane’s favorite flower, a symbol of the beauty offered to soothe his spirit.
- Etiquette: Remember that while these are festivals, they are religious events. When a mikoshi passes, it is polite to stop moving and bow your head slightly, acknowledging the deity passing by.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in the historical texts that document the rise of spirit pacification and the early myths of Japan, the following classic texts provide essential context:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): For background on the early concepts of kami and impurity.
- The Shoku Nihon Koki: Contains records of the early official Goryo-e held in the Imperial gardens.
- The Tale of Heike: Offers insight into the Buddhist perspective on impermanence and the vengeful spirits of the Taira clan.