Atsuta Shrine Guide: The Legend of the Sacred Sword
Nestled in the bustling industrial metropolis of Nagoya, Japan, lies a sanctuary of ancient silence and profound spirituality: Atsuta Jingu, or Atsuta Shrine. Often overshadowed by the fame of Kyoto’s temples or Tokyo’s Meiji Shrine, Atsuta holds a distinction that places it at the very pinnacle of Shinto hierarchy. It is traditionally considered the second most important shrine in Japan, surpassed only by the Grand Shrine of Ise.
For travelers seeking to understand the soul of Japan, Atsuta is not merely a sightseeing spot; it is a pilgrimage into the country’s mythological origins. This verdant oasis covers approximately 20 hectares, offering a serene escape where history, legend, and modern Japanese life intersect.
The Origins of the Sanctuary
Atsuta Shrine boasts a lineage that stretches back nearly 1,900 years. According to shrine records, it was established during the reign of the 12th Emperor, Keiko, around 113 AD. Its primary purpose was to enshrine the Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi (Grass-Mowing Sword), one of the Three Imperial Regalia of Japan (Sanshu-no-Jingi), which symbolize the legitimacy of the Emperor.
The architecture of the main hall reflects the Shinmei-zukuri style, characterized by its unpainted cypress wood and thatched roof, mirroring the architectural purity found at Ise Jingu. Over the centuries, the shrine has enjoyed the patronage of warlords and emperors alike. Notably, the famous Nobunaga-bei, a mud wall located within the grounds, was donated by the legendary warlord Oda Nobunaga in 1560 as an offering of gratitude after his unlikely victory at the Battle of Okehazama.
The Legend of the Kusanagi Sword
The spiritual gravity of Atsuta Shrine revolves entirely around the Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi. To understand the shrine, one must understand the sword’s mythological journey, as chronicled in Japan’s oldest historical records.
The legend begins with the storm god Susanoo. After being banished from the heavens, he encountered an eight-headed dragon, Yamata-no-Orochi, terrorizing a province. Susanoo intoxicated the beast with sake and slew it. In the dragon’s tail, he discovered a divine sword, originally named Ame-no-Murakumo-no-Tsurugi (Sword of the Gathering Clouds of Heaven), which he presented to his sister, the Sun Goddess Amaterasu.
Generations later, the sword was passed down to the warrior prince Yamato Takeru. During a treacherous ambush in a burning field, the prince used the blade to cut down the grass around him to stop the fire spread, renaming it Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi (Grass-Mowing Sword). Legend holds that upon his death, the sword was enshrined at Atsuta, where it remains to this day. Although the sword is never shown to the public—hidden deep within the sanctum—its invisible presence imbues the air with a palpable sense of awe.
Modern Culture and Festivals
Today, Atsuta Shrine is affectionately called “Atsuta-sama” by locals and serves as the spiritual heart of Nagoya. It is not just a relic of the past but a vibrant center of modern community life. During the New Year period (Hatsumode), the grounds swell with over two million visitors coming to pray for good fortune and prosperity.
The shrine hosts roughly 70 ceremonies annually, but the most significant is the Atsuta Festival held on June 5th. This marks the beginning of summer in Nagoya, featuring portable shrines (mikoshi), martial arts demonstrations, and spectacular fireworks displays. The juxtaposition of ancient Shinto rituals with the festive energy of food stalls and lanterns highlights the continuity of Japanese culture.
Culinary culture also thrives here. A distinct version of udon noodles called Kishimen is a Nagoya specialty, and one of the best places to try it is actually within the shrine grounds at the Miya Kishimen restaurant. Eating these flat, wide noodles in the open air surrounded by the sacred forest is a unique cultural experience.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Atsuta Shrine is straightforward, but a few tips can enhance your experience:
- Access: The shrine is easily accessible via the Meitetsu Line (Jingu-mae Station) or the JR line (Atsuta Station), just a few minutes from Nagoya Station.
- Etiquette: Upon entering the Torii gates, bow once. Before approaching the main hall, cleanse your hands and mouth at the Temizuya (water pavilion). When praying, throw a coin into the box, bow twice, clap your hands twice, pray silently, and bow once more.
- The Treasure Hall (Bunkaden): Do not miss the Treasure Hall located on the grounds. While the sacred sword is hidden, this museum displays over 4,000 items, including ancient swords, mirrors, and documents designated as National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties.
- The Great Camphor Tree: Look for the massive camphor tree near the main shrine, said to be over 1,000 years old and planted by the famous monk Kobo Daishi.
Sources & Further Reading
For those interested in delving deeper into the mythology surrounding Atsuta Shrine and the Imperial Regalia, the following classical texts provide the foundational narratives:
- The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest extant chronicle (c. 712 AD), detailing the age of the gods and the lineage of the Imperial family.
- The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 AD, this text offers a more detailed historical account of the Yamato court and the legend of Yamato Takeru.
- Owari no Kuni Fudoki: An ancient record of the culture and geography of the Owari province (modern-day Western Aichi), providing local context to the shrine’s location.