Kashima Shrine: The Sacred Roots of Martial Arts
Deep within the ancient cedar forests of Ibaraki Prefecture stands a sanctuary that predates much of recorded Japanese history. Kashima Jingu (Kashima Shrine) is not merely a place of worship; it is the spiritual ancestral home of Japanese martial arts and a pivotal location in Shinto mythology. Often overshadowed by the tourist-heavy shrines of Kyoto, Kashima offers a profound, stoic atmosphere that speaks to the warrior spirit of old Japan.
For travelers seeking to understand the intersection of history, myth, and the way of the sword (Bushido), a pilgrimage to this venerable site is essential. As the head shrine of approximately 600 Kashima shrines nationwide, it commands a presence that is both intimidating and serene.
Origins: A Legacy from the Dawn of Japan
According to shrine tradition, Kashima Jingu was founded in 660 BCE, the same year responsible for the ascension of Japan’s first emperor, Jimmu. While historical accuracy regarding such ancient dates is often debated, the shrine’s antiquity is undeniable. It holds a distinct prestige in the Shinto hierarchy.
During the Heian period (794–1185), only three shrines in Japan carried the prestigious suffix “Jingu” (meaning Imperial Shrine): Ise Jingu, Katori Jingu, and Kashima Jingu. This elevated status highlights its immense political and spiritual significance to the Imperial Court and the Fujiwara clan, who revered the enshrined deity as a guardian ancestor.
Throughout the feudal era, famous shoguns and samurai, including Minamoto no Yoritomo and Tokugawa Ieyasu, paid homage here, donating land and buildings. The current main hall (Honden), a designated Important Cultural Property, was donated by the second Tokugawa Shogun, Hidetada, in the early 17th century.
Legend: The Thunder God and the Earthquake Catfish
The primary deity enshrined at Kashima is Takemikazuchi-no-Okami, a powerful god of thunder and swords. His mythology is dramatic and central to the Shinto creation narrative found in ancient texts.
The Pacification of the Land
In the myths, Takemikazuchi was sent down from the heavens to pacify the terrestrial world so that the descendants of the Sun Goddess Amaterasu could rule. He descended to the beach of Inasa in Izumo, sat cross-legged upon the tip of his upturned sword, and negotiated the transfer of the land—a feat of martial prowess and diplomacy.
The Kaname-ishi (Keystone)
Perhaps the most fascinating legend at Kashima Jingu concerns the Namazu, a giant underground catfish believed to cause earthquakes by thrashing its tail. Legend says that Takemikazuchi pinned the catfish’s head down using a massive stone, the Kaname-ishi.
Today, visitors can see the cap of this stone protruding from the ground in a secluded part of the forest. Though it appears small on the surface, it is said to be immense underground, rooting the earth in place. Even today, the motif of Takemikazuchi restraining the catfish is a common symbol of earthquake protection in Japan.
Modern Culture: The Spirit of Budo
Kashima Jingu is synonymous with Japanese martial arts. In the Sengoku (Warring States) period, the shrine attracted swordsmen looking to perfect their craft. The legendary sword saint Tsukahara Bokuden, founder of the Kashima Shinto-ryu style, was born in this area and served as a priest at the shrine.
The Dojo and Deer
Because of this lineage, the shrine remains a pilgrimage site for kendo and kenjutsu practitioners globally. A dedicated dojo stands within the precincts, and the shrine frequently hosts high-level martial arts demonstrations.
Beyond martial arts, the shrine is famous for its deer. Visitors will find a deer enclosure housing around 30 deer. In Shinto, deer are considered messengers of the gods. Interestingly, the famous deer of Nara Park (surrounding Kasuga Taisha) are said to be descendants of deer that were transported from Kashima Jingu to Nara on the back of Takemikazuchi in ancient times.
Traveler’s Tips
Visiting Kashima Jingu is a retreat into nature and history. The shrine grounds cover a vast area of dense forest, offering a “power spot” energy that rejuvenates the spirit.
- Mitarashi Pond: Do not miss this crystal-clear spring-fed pond. Originally a purification site for visitors, the water is so clear that you can see the bottom, and koi fish glide through it as if flying. It is a favorite spot for photographers.
- Access: The shrine is accessible via the JR Kashima Line to Kashima-Jingu Station. From Tokyo, highway buses from Tokyo Station are often faster and more direct, taking about two hours.
- Best Time to Visit: While beautiful year-round, June is spectacular due to the iris festivals, and New Year’s brings a vibrant, albeit crowded, atmosphere as thousands come for Hatsumode (first prayer).
- Nearby: Consider pairing your trip with a visit to Katori Jingu in nearby Chiba Prefecture. Historically, the two shrines are paired as the guardians of the East.
Sources & Further Reading
For those wishing to delve deeper into the mythology and history surrounding Kashima Jingu and Takemikazuchi, the following classical texts are essential:
- The Kojiki (Record of Ancient Matters): Japan’s oldest extant chronicle (712 CE), detailing the age of the gods and the transfer of the land.
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): Completed in 720 CE, this text provides a more formal historical account and further elaborates on the Imperial lineage and the role of the Kashima deities.
- Budo: The Art of Killing by Tsukahara Bokuden (Translated works and commentaries on his philosophy provide context to the region’s martial history).