Unveiling Kincho Tanuki: The Spirit of Tokushima
If you wander through the streets of Komatsushima in Tokushima Prefecture, you might stumble upon a peculiar statue: a large raccoon dog standing upright, exuding an aura of dignity rather than the usual comical mischief associated with his kind. This is Kincho, the legendary bake-danuki (shapeshifting raccoon dog) who is not merely a folktale trickster, but a venerated local deity. For travelers fascinated by the mystical side of Japan, the story of Kincho offers a deep dive into the country’s rich yokai folklore.
Origins of the Shapeshifter
In Japanese mythology, the tanuki (Japanese raccoon dog) is a real animal with a supernatural reputation. Unlike the foxes (kitsune) who serve the rice god Inari, tanuki are often portrayed as jovial, belly-drumming tricksters who use leaves to shapeshift and deceive humans. However, the tanuki of Shikoku island—and specifically Tokushima (formerly Awa Province)—are considered the most powerful and numerous in all of Japan.
Kincho is not an ordinary tanuki. He is a figure of loyalty and martial prowess. While most tanuki stories involve pranks on woodcutters or monks, Kincho’s origin is rooted in honor and tragedy. He represents the archetype of the noble warrior, a stark contrast to the ceramic statues holding sake bottles seen outside modern izakayas.
The Legend: The Awa Tanuki War
The most famous narrative surrounding Kincho is the Awa Tanuki Gassen (The Battle of the Awa Raccoon Dogs), a legendary war that occurred in the late Edo period. It is one of the “Three Famous Tanuki Tales of Japan.”
The Betrayal
According to the legend, Kincho was a boss tanuki with a human alter ego. He apprenticed himself to Rokuemon, another powerful tanuki leader, to refine his shapeshifting skills. Kincho served faithfully and even saved Rokuemon’s life. However, Rokuemon, fearing Kincho’s rising power and popularity, tried to force Kincho to marry his daughter to keep him under control. When Kincho refused, intending to return to his own territory, Rokuemon felt slighted.
The Great Battle
Rokuemon launched a surprise attack, killing one of Kincho’s followers. This betrayal sparked a brutal war involving over 600 tanuki divided into two armies. The battles were fierce, fought not with claws and teeth, but with supernatural powers, illusions, and weapons. In the final confrontation, Kincho slew Rokuemon but suffered mortal wounds himself. He died shortly after securing victory, cementing his status as a tragic hero who fought to avenge his followers and uphold his honor.
Modern Culture and Legacy
Today, Kincho is more than just a ghost story; he is a cultural icon in Tokushima. His legacy transcends oral tradition and influences modern Japanese media and commerce.
Studio Ghibli Connection: Fans of anime might recognize the themes of the Awa Tanuki War in Isao Takahata’s masterpiece, Pom Poko (Heisei Tanuki Gassen Pom Poko). The movie features the return of the powerful Shikoku tanuki masters to help save their Tokyo brethren, explicitly referencing the legendary figures of Awa.
Sweet Souvenirs: One of Tokushima’s most famous souvenirs is the “Kincho Manju,” a chocolate-flavored bun produced by a local confectionery. The sweet treats feature imagery of the tanuki, keeping the name alive in households across the region.
Traveler’s Tips: Visiting Kincho’s Shrine
For those wishing to pay their respects to this fluffy warrior, a visit to Kincho Shrine (Kincho-jinja) in Komatsushima City is essential.
- The Shrine: Located near Nandaiko Park, the shrine is uniquely dedicated to a tanuki. It is said to bring luck in business and competition (owing to Kincho’s victory in war). The area is surrounded by statues of raccoon dogs in various poses.
- The Movie Festival: The shrine has gained recent fame as a pilgrimage site for anime fans, and local preservation efforts are strong, often hosting outdoor movie screenings and festivals celebrating the tanuki heritage.
- Etiquette: When visiting, treat the shrine with the same respect you would a major Shinto site. A small offering (coin) and a bow are appropriate. Do not climb on the statues.
Sources & Further Reading
To understand the broader context of Japanese mythology and the role of animals as deities, the following texts and resources are recommended:
- The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan): While it focuses on the creation myths and imperial lineage, it establishes the animistic worldview that allows animals like tanuki to possess spirits.
- Kwaidan by Lafcadio Hearn: A classic collection of ghost stories that captures the eerie atmosphere of Japanese folklore.
- Local Tokushima Archives: Specifically, records regarding the Awa no Tanuki Gassen, which have been adapted into Kabuki plays and movies since the early 20th century.