Rittō: Embracing the First Ice of Winter in Japan

As the vibrant crimson leaves of autumn begin to fall and the air turns crisp, Japan prepares for a subtle yet profound shift in the seasonal calendar. This is the arrival of Rittō (立冬), the beginning of winter. While much of the world views winter merely as a drop in temperature, Japanese culture, deeply rooted in the 24 solar terms, celebrates this transition with poetic reverence. Central to this period is the concept of the “Ice of Winter,” marking the moment the earth begins to sleep and the waters begin to freeze.

The Origins of Rittō

Rittō is one of the 24 solar terms (called Sekki) that originated in ancient China and were adopted by Japan around the 6th century. It usually falls around November 7th or 8th, marking the astronomical midpoint between the Autumn Equinox and the Winter Solstice.

In the traditional Japanese agrarian calendar, this date signifies the definitive end of the harvest season and the beginning of winter preparations. The word Rittō literally translates to “Stand Winter,” implying that winter has now established itself. Historically, farmers would look for the first signs of frost or thin sheets of ice on puddles—the Hatsugori (first ice)—as a signal to finish insulating their homes and storing crops. This observation of the natural world became a cultural touchstone, acknowledging the beauty in the encroaching cold.

The Legend of the Ice Chambers

While the consumption of shaved ice is associated with summer festivals, the legend and spiritual significance of ice begin in winter. According to ancient lore recorded in historical texts, the sanctity of ice was paramount for the Imperial Court.

The Discovery of Himuro

The connection between the Emperor and ice is legendary. It is said that in ancient times, Prince Nittabe (a son of Emperor Tenmu) discovered an ice chamber, or Himuro, while hunting. He was fascinated by the ability to preserve winter’s cold deep into the summer.

However, the spiritual preparation for this preservation begins at Rittō. Folklore suggests that during this time, the local deities of the mountains shift. The benevolent spirits of the harvest depart, and the harsher, yet purifying spirits of the cold take residence. The first appearance of ice was historically seen as a message from the gods regarding the severity of the coming winter. If ice formed early (around Rittō), it was believed to be a prosperous sign for a hard, cleansing winter that would kill off pests and ensure a good spring melt for the rice paddies.

Modern Culture: Tea and the Hearth

Today, Rittō is less about survival and more about cultural appreciation. The most prominent modern observance related to the “coming of the cold” occurs in the world of the Japanese Tea Ceremony (Chado).

Robiraki: Opening the Hearth

Rittō marks the season of Robiraki, or the “opening of the sunken hearth.” During the warmer months, the tea kettle is placed on a portable brazier (furo). However, once Rittō arrives and the first “sense of ice” is felt in the air, tea masters open the ro (sunken hearth) cut into the tatami floor.

This transition is significant; it brings the heat source closer to the guests to provide warmth, symbolizing hospitality and comfort against the winter chill. It is often called the “New Year of the Tea Practitioner.” Special sweets, such as Inoko-mochi (boar-shaped rice cakes), are eaten to pray for freedom from illness and protection from fire.

Traveler’s Tips for Rittō

If you find yourself in Japan during early November, here is how you can experience the spirit of Rittō and the first ice of winter:

• Experience a Tea Ceremony: Visit Kyoto or Kanazawa and book a traditional tea ceremony. Ask if they have transitioned to the ro (sunken hearth). It offers a cozy, intimate atmosphere distinct from summer ceremonies.
• Seasonal Gastronomy: Look for Kaiseki (traditional multi-course) meals featuring winter ingredients. This is the start of the crab season in the Sea of Japan and the time when root vegetables become sweeter due to the cold.
• Winter Illuminations: While early, many cities begin their winter light displays around Rittō, symbolizing the “sparkle of ice” through millions of LED lights. The Nabana no Sato illumination is particularly famous.
• Visit a Shrine: Visit shrines dedicated to water or ice deities, such as Himuro Shrine in Nara. While the main ice festival is in summer, visiting in winter allows you to see the serene, quiet origins of the tradition.

Sources & Further Reading

For those interested in the deep historical roots of Japanese seasonality and ice traditions, the following texts provide essential context:

• Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): Contains early references to the use of ice chambers (Himuro) and the Imperial family’s relationship with seasonal preservation.
• The Tale of Genji: Offers glimpses into the aesthetic appreciation of the changing seasons and the aristocratic life of the Heian period.
• Japan’s 72 Micro-seasons: A breakdown of the solar terms, specifically the micro-seasons following Rittō, such as “Earth Begins to Freeze” (Chi Hajimete Kōru).