Japan’s Risshu: Embracing the First Wind of Autumn

In the height of August, when the cicadas are still buzzing with fervent intensity and the Japanese sun bears down on the asphalt, a subtle shift occurs on the calendar. This is Risshu (立秋), the traditional beginning of autumn. For travelers and culture enthusiasts, this concept often seems contradictory to the sweltering heat. However, Risshu is not merely about temperature; it is about the “Wind of Autumn” (Aki no Kaze)—a poetic and spiritual transition that signals the turning of the seasons long before the leaves begin to redden.

Introduction

Falling annually around August 7th or 8th, Risshu marks the thirteenth of the twenty-four solar terms in the traditional East Asian lunisolar calendar. While the Western world might consider August the peak of summer, in Japan, this date signifies the moment the season crests. The phrase “Wind of Autumn” refers to the first almost imperceptible cool breeze that whispers through the humid air, promising relief. It is a time of sensory nuance, where the Japanese appreciation for ephemeral changes—mono no aware—comes into full play. Understanding Risshu transforms a summer trip to Japan from a battle against the heat into a cultural treasure hunt for signs of the coming harvest.

Origins of the Solar Term

The concept of Risshu originates from ancient China, adapted by the Japanese imperial court during the Asuka and Nara periods. The twenty-four solar terms, or Sekki, were developed to guide agricultural practices in the Yellow River basin. Because Japan’s climate is slightly different (and more humid) than Northern China’s, there has always been a slight disconnect between the calendar name and the weather reality.

Historically, Risshu was vital for farmers. It signaled the time to prepare for the harvest and the impending typhoon season. In the Heian period aristocrats began to attach deep aesthetic meaning to this date. It became a marker for changing one’s mindset, distinct from the physical reality of the weather. This separation of “calendar time” and “weather time” is a unique characteristic of Japanese cultural discipline.

Legend and Poetic Tradition

Unlike festivals rooted in heroic myths or deity worship, the “legend” of Risshu is found in the wind itself, immortalized in literature. The most famous cultural touchpoint for this day comes from the Kokin Wakashu, an early imperial anthology of waka poetry.

The poet Fujiwara no Toshiyuki wrote a verse that defines the Japanese understanding of this day:

“The arrival of autumn is not visible to the eyes, but I am startled by the sound of the wind.”

This poem encapsulates the spirit of Risshu. The legend here is not about a dragon or a god, but about the invisible spirit of Autumn arriving on the wind. In folklore, it is believed that the boundaries between the spirit world and the human world begin to thin as autumn approaches, leading up to the Obon festival (festival of the dead) which often follows closely after Risshu. The wind is seen as a messenger, carrying spirits back to their ancestral homes and bringing the melancholy beauty of the dying year.

Modern Culture and Customs

Today, Risshu is observed less as a festival and more as a cultural pivot point. The most prominent modern custom involves greeting cards. Before Risshu, people send Shochu-mimai (summer greeting cards). However, the moment Risshu arrives, the greeting changes to Zansho-mimai (lingering summer heat greetings). This acknowledges that while it is technically autumn, the heat remains.

Culinary traditions also shift. While travelers can still find shaved ice (kakigori), convenience stores and restaurants quietly begin introducing autumn flavors. You might spot:

• Sanma (Pacific Saury): The quintessential autumn fish begins to appear on menus.
• Seasonal Produce: Sweet potatoes and chestnuts start making their way into sweets, even if the thermometer reads 35°C (95°F).
• Festivals: Risshu often coincides with major fireworks festivals and the preparation for Obon, creating a vibrant atmosphere where the “end of summer” energy is celebrated with gusto.

Traveler’s Tips for Risshu

Traveling to Japan during Risshu (early to mid-August) requires strategy to enjoy the “Wind of Autumn” without melting in the “Heat of Summer.”

1. Chase the Real Wind: To truly feel the cool autumn breeze mentioned in poetry, head to higher altitudes. Kamikochi in the Japanese Alps or the highlands of Nikko offer a genuine respite where the air feels crisp, aligning with the calendar date.
2. Listen to the Insects: Visit a quiet temple garden in Kyoto, such as Ryoan-ji, near dusk. The chorus of cicadas changes around this time, joined by the first chirping of crickets, an auditory sign of Risshu.
3. Dress for Zansho: Do not be fooled by the word “Autumn.” It is incredibly humid. Wear breathable linen and carry a sensu (folding fan). Using a fan is culturally appropriate and connects you to the history of creating your own wind.
4. Attend Obon: Look for Bon Odori dances in local neighborhoods. These circle dances meant to welcome spirits often take place in the evening when the wind finally picks up.

Sources & Further Reading

To deepen your understanding of the Japanese calendar and the poetic significance of the autumn wind, consider exploring these historical texts:

• The Kokin Wakashu (Collection of Ancient and Modern Japanese Poems): For the definitive waka poems regarding the invisible arrival of autumn.
• The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): For context on how the Chinese lunisolar calendar was adopted by the Yamato court.
• The Tale of Genji: specifically the chapters detailing the changing of seasonal robes and the emotional impact of the autumn wind on the Heian court.