Rikka: Embracing the Vibrant Greenery of Early Summer in Japan

While the world is captivated by Japan’s cherry blossoms in April, seasoned travelers and locals know that the true visual feast begins immediately after the petals fall. This is the season of Rikka (立夏), the beginning of summer, characterized by an explosion of vibrant, translucent greenery known as shinryoku. Occurring around May 5th, Rikka marks a refreshing interlude between the fading spring and the heavy humidity of the rainy season, offering some of the most spectacular natural scenery in the Japanese calendar.

The Origins of Rikka

Rikka is the seventh of the twenty-four solar terms (sekki) in the traditional East Asian lunisolar calendar. The concept was imported from ancient China and adapted to the Japanese climate during the Asuka period (538–710 AD). In this system, the year is divided into 24 periods of approximately 15 days, based on the sun’s longitude.

Literally translating to “Standing Summer” or “The Onset of Summer,” Rikka signifies the moment the sun reaches the celestial longitude of 45°. Unlike the Western definition of summer, which focuses on peak heat, Rikka represents the awakening of summer energy. It is a time when the earth’s vitality is believed to be at its strongest, pushing life upward through the soil and into the branches of the Japanese maple and zelkova trees.

Historically, this period was crucial for agriculture. It signaled to farmers that the frost was officially gone, and the preparations for rice planting could begin in earnest. The winds shift during this time, bringing a refreshing breeze known as kunpu, which carries the scent of young leaves.

Legends and Spiritual Significance

In Japanese folklore and Shinto belief, the fresh greenery of Rikka is not just a biological process but a spiritual phenomenon. The vibrant green leaves are thought to possess powerful life energy, or ki.

One prevailing legend associated with this time of year connects to the Iris (Shobu). Rikka coincides with the traditional event Tango no Sekku (now Children’s Day). Ancient texts suggest that the strong fragrance of the iris flower and the sword-like shape of its leaves possessed the power to ward off evil spirits and bad luck. During the Heian period, courtiers would wear iris roots or hang them from the eaves of their homes to purify the air as the seasons changed.

Furthermore, the concept of Kodama (tree spirits) is deeply felt during Rikka. As the forests turn from the skeletal gray of winter and the soft pink of spring to a deep, electric green, it is said that the spirits of the forest are most active. Walking through a forest during Rikka is traditionally considered a form of spiritual bathing, or shinrin-yoku (forest bathing), where one absorbs the vigorous energy of the new season.

Modern Culture: Shincha and May Blues

In contemporary Japan, Rikka is synonymous with the “Golden Week” holidays, but culturally, it is defined by Shincha (New Tea). The traditional calendar states that tea picking should begin on the 88th day after the start of spring (Risshun), which usually falls just before or right at the start of Rikka. Drinking the first flush of green tea during this period is believed to promote longevity and good health for the coming year.

Conversely, modern culture also recognizes a phenomenon known as Gogatsu-byo (May Sickness). This refers to the slump or lack of motivation new employees and students feel after the excitement of April (the start of the fiscal and academic year) wears off. The cultural antidote to this malaise is the enjoyment of the “Greenery of Summer.” People flock to parks, mountains, and temples to view the aomomiji (green maples), finding solace and revitalization in the calming verdant landscapes.

Traveler’s Tips for Rikka

Traveling to Japan during Rikka (early to mid-May) is arguably the best time for weather conditions—it is warm but not hot, and dry before the tsuyu (rainy season) begins in June.

Where to Go

• Kyoto: Visit temples like Rurikoin or Gio-ji. While famous for autumn colors, their moss gardens and green maples (aomomiji) are arguably more stunning and less crowded in May. The light filtering through the green leaves creates a serene atmosphere.
• Kamikochi: This resort in the Northern Japan Alps opens in late April. By Rikka, the alpine valley is lush, offering breathtaking hiking against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks.
• Meiji Jingu (Tokyo): For an urban escape, the dense forest of Meiji Shrine offers a canopy of intense green that blocks out the city heat and noise.

What to Eat

Look for seasonal delicacies such as:

• Katsuo (Bonito): The “first bonito” (hatsu-gatsuo) is prized during this season.
• Bamboo Shoots (Takenoko): Freshly harvested and often served with rice.
• Shincha: Visit a tea house for the freshest green tea of the year.

Sources & Further Reading

To understand the depth of Japan’s seasonal appreciation, the following historical texts and resources are recommended:

• The Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan): For insights into the introduction of the calendar systems and the importance of agriculture in early imperial Japan.
• The Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters): For mythology regarding nature spirits and the sanctity of the land.
• Kiyoshi, H. (2008). Japanese Almanacs and the 24 Solar Terms. A detailed look at how the Sekki guide modern Japanese culture.

Rikka offers a side of Japan that is energetic, lush, and deeply restorative. By stepping away from the cherry blossom chase and embracing the “Greenery of Summer,” travelers can experience the country at its most vibrant.